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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Re:Stainless in aluminum
Thanks, I'm going to need quite a number of aluminum access ports which will be approximately 6" in diameter ( big enough to put your arm in) going through my ferro-cement soft ballast chamber. I've decided to construct the thing in two pieces and then weld in back together and then plaster the inside using arm hole access ports. The holes will be plugged with the aluminum fittings, once everything has cured.
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gregory B. Snyder" <snyder@mnrad.com>
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 3:43 PM
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Re:Stainless in aluminum
> Vance -
> I always lear a lot from your posts.
> Thanks-
> Greg
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of
> VBra676539@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 5:17 PM
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Re:Stainless in aluminum
>
>
> Brian,
>
> Maybe Hugo will catch this question and help me out here with some
> product
> names, but I can tell you that the answer to your question is yes and
> no.
>
> At HBOI, we used a stainless steel insert which was threaded inside and
> out.
> Bore the hole to the insert size, tap, screw the insert itself into the
> aluminum with a mandrel and then hammer in the locking dogs. The insert
> should be
> well bedded in one of the super whammydine Loctites (or epoxy or
> something) in
> an effort to exclude seawater from the outer threads. It's going to
> become a
> permanent fixture anyway (as you might well imagine) so you might as
> well nail
> it in there the best way you know how.
>
> The inserts come in all sizes, so that their inside thread size will
> match
> whatever bolt you have in mind. The trick to using them successfully is
> to
> grease the bolt with nonsoluble grease every time you install it, and I
> mean grease
> it GOOD!!! Otherwise, and as I remember it, about the only otherwise we
> ever
> found, was that salt would creep in there and build on the
> threads--which gave
> you a twisted off bolt head, more often than not, when you tried to pull
> it
> later.
>
> One more hint: Don't use machine threads for this kind of application.
> 1/4 20
> is about as fine as you'd want to risk. The coarser threads, when being
> reluctant on removal, are easier to rock back and forth, thus easier to
> persuade
> out into the light.
>
> We used Almag hatches in the early days at Perry and had to fight
> corrosion
> quite a bit, and as I have said somewhere (somewhen?) else on this page,
> we
> used magnesium anodes on the aluminum dive planes and rudder assemblies.
> I have
> actually WATCHED them corrode, with fumes streaming off and little bits
> of
> metal flaking into the water, when a DC circuit shorted to ground.
>
> You can, of course, bolt straight into aluminum, but the damage will
> happen
> on the aluminum end, and you probably won't see it until it gets pretty
> bad--and it won't be pretty--just pretty bad. Beware. Some days it's
> like diving in
> battery acid. A single dive with a pesky short can cause some BIG
> problems.
>
> Best Regards,
> Vance
>
>
>
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